The season presents a profusion of possibilities
By Katie Weisman
Southern snowstorms and caustic cold spells have everyone looking forward to fair weather. Fortunately, the fashions that American and international designers have in stores now will please many palettes. Trends were abundant, and designers on both sides of the Atlantic have explored color, texture, and pattern for a season of exuberance.
While female actors stuck to black at the Golden Globes as a sign of support for the Time’s Up movement, designers are embracing color for this spring-summer season. There are faint pastel shades reminiscent of SweeTarts candy, as well as deeper sorbet shades of raspberry and mango. Bolder, saturated colors such as bright reds and blue to deeper gemstone hues are also omnipresent. Color is being used solidly as a backdrop to floral motifs or as part of checked and plaid patterns — even in rainbow striping and art prints.
Texture and shine are also big for the season. Sequins deck out all kinds of pieces from demure slip dresses, an important silhouette for the season, to shorts ensembles harkening back to the days of disco. Fringe factors into the season as well either as trim to a jacket or coat or as allover embellishment for a dress. Shine is also in evidence as designers play with innovative materials, notably plastics.
So this season, plenty of options are for the taking. The power pantsuit with feminine flair is at the ready for day or dressy evenings while dresses run the gamut from simple sundresses to evening gowns perfect for summer soirées. If casual is what you’re after, the designers also dove into denim using both dark, more formal weaves as well as softer, vintage versions.
IN THE TRENCHES
Originally part of 19th Century military dress, the trench coat for this season got multiple treatments. From the single-breasted tailoring and yoke detail from Pasis-based Celine to the more fluid, over printed version from Belgium’s Dries Van Noten, the trench continues to evolve from its foreverclassic style.
Dries Van Noten Silk Trench Coat
SHOP OTHER STYLES
Burberry Eastheath Trench
Ralph Lauren Gingham Twill Trench Coat
Max Mara Azeglio Linen Trench Coat
Vince Army Green Oversized Trench
Floral and botanical motifs exploded this season from designers in all the major capitals. Italian label Marni used both bold, graphic florals as well as those one would find on chintz upholstery. London-based Erdem Moralioglu, who founded his signature label 13 years ago, focused his floral brocades and prints on Queen Elizabeth’s ensemble when she met Duke Ellington in 1958 as well as imagining what America’s famous early 20th century African-American performers would have worn on a visit to Buckingham Palace.
Erdem Spring Summer 2018 Collection
Erdem Tamaryn pussy-bow silk-chiffon dress
Saloni Juliet one-shoulder dress
Diane Von Furstenberg print wrap dress
Dolce & Gabbana ruffled cady mini dress
Denim, the quintessentially American fabric, enjoyed lots of interpretations from global designers. The crisp, bold, and strictly tailored denim suit from Tom Ford is a standout as is the 1970’s New York-themed jean skirt and jacket trimmed with patches and embellishment from Coach 1941 designer Stuart Vevers.
Tom Ford Denim two-button jacket with strong shoulders, $2,950; Denim bra, $1,090; Rolled cuffed cropped jeans, $1,090; neimanmarcus.com
SHOP OTHER STYLES
Sacai Zip-embellished denim dress
Loewe Leather-trimmed denim peplum jacket
A.P.C. Indigo denim Suzie ruffles shirt
JW Anderson Indigo cropped denim jacket
THE WHITE ALBUM
White is a summer staple, and designers didn’t hold back. Michael Kors embraces tailored fluidity for this ensemble, while Marchesa’s evening suit is simple and chic (previous page). The draped goddess dress from J. Mendel is part of the trend for flowing evening gowns in ethereal chiffon, lace, and guipure, or gentle opaque fabrics.
Michael Kors Draped crepe blazer with belt, $2,195; Assymetrical crepe midi skirt, $1,295; neimanmarcus.com
Dion Lee Cutout midi dress
Dolce & Gabbana Flared lace detailed trousers
Solace London Larin asymmetric dress
Balmain Double-breasted crepe blazer
Oscar de la Renta’s slip dress underscores the trend for variations on this underpinning seen in many spring-summer collections. Some designers have a more literal take with vintage-inspired satin and lace-trimmed dresses, while others opt for sheer floor-length slip gowns. Here, the New York label uses sequins to spark up a simple silhouette.
Oscar de la Renta Sequined silk-blend chiffon dress, $4,990; net-a-porter.com
Eleanor Balfour Camille 9OS Slip Dress
Lake Studio Reversible slip dress
T by Alexander Wang Black Wash & Go slip dress
Rochas Slip maxi dress
PRETTY IN PINK…
…or lilac, mint, or yellow – pastels in all shades splashed the runways. The dress from Los Angeles’ Monique L’Huillier hints at the trend for lavender. While other hues, such as yellow in this gown from New York’s Marc Jacobs, pale blue, and “Millennial Pink” are in ample supply.
Monique Lhuillier Strapless feather-embellished ball gown, $14,995; bergdorfgoodman.com
Goen J Color-block Maxi
Chloé Ruffled silk-charmeuse mini dress
See by Chloé Ruffled crinkled-silk dress
Vince Washed-silk shirt dress
Sapphire, emerald, and amethyst tones seen in pieces from New York’s Jason Wu, Derek Lam, and Reem Acra, illustrate the wonderful deep hues of this season — and these gem tones are not just reserved for evening. They stand in stark contrast to bright primary colors of blue, yellow, or red, as in this dress (previous page) from Parisbased Andrew Gn.
Derek Lam Long-sleeve belted oversized cotton dress, $1,290; neimanmarcus.com
Paul & Joe maxi dress
Equipment Natalie pussy-bow mini dress
Anna Sui Cosmos printed dress
Oliva von Halle Hero silk-jersey maxi dress